This is a little belated, but I figured I'd still share some of my thoughts from my 11 day trip to Kalikot!
Well the journey to Kalikot culminated in bloody and
infected feet, leach filled shoes, and a new, more developed outlook on
Nepal. Prior to this trip, I had heard
the kids talking about their villages, there village families, and the
difficulty of life in Kalikot, however, it wasn’t until making the trip that I
fully grasped the background of many of our Kopila kids. For those of you who don’t know Kalikot is a
region north of Surkhet, and while its not too far distance wise, it is
tremendously challenging to reach due to the mountainous terrain and
underdeveloped roads. Additionally,
Kalikot was the epicenter of Nepal’s civil war and its people suffered the most causalities
and setbacks of any other region in the country.
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Village in Kalikot |
A yearlong curiosity inspired this trip, and I left on a
rainy Wednesday morning with my good Nepali friend Sandip. The trip up was intense to say the
least. Fortunately Sandip was related to
the driver, and he let us sit up front which afforded us a bit more space. That said, the seats also gave us a front row
view for a trip down one of the worlds most terrifying roads…This is not
sarcastic, National Geographic has ranked Jumla Road between Surkhet and Mamna
the world’s most dangerous. During the early portions of our trip, I realized
where this reputation came from. About 4
hours into our drive we ran into a huge traffic jam, this jam was the result of
mudslide on the road. After an hour of
waiting and every able bodied man helping to clear the road, the cars, buses,
and tractors began to make the perilous pass. Several faced some real
difficulty and at times 15 to 20 people were out pushing vehicles around the
corner. Fortunatley, our bus driver was
a pro and made it through the pass easier than other…Unfortunately we ran into
another mudslide about 30 minutes later which resulted in another longer
delay. Unbelievably, this was the “easy”
part of the drive, and Sandip said the scary part was yet to come. I learned what he was talking about shortly
there after when news broke that one of the buses just in front of us
“summersaulted” off the mountain. This
crash resulted in 6 fatalities and over 30 severe injuries. Our bus actually provided water to the bus of
wounded people driving down for medical attention in Surkhet. I actually felt tears welling up in my eyes
as the bus of bloodied and battered people came driving buy. If I wasn’t on edge enough, a few hours later
we reached the “scary part” also known as “S More”, this challenging corner
involved the bus making a 3 point turn while teetering on the edge of a cliff. I regretted our front row seats immensely at
this point and am sure I nearly cut off Sandip’s circulation while grabbing his
arm through this terrifying sequence. After a few more harrowing hours we
reached Mamna safe and sound, albeit my anxiety levels were through the roof. Upon getting out of the bus in Mamna, As we
walked to the White House Hotel I quickly came to the realization that I wasn’t
in the Nepal I had gotten used to over the previous 8 months. A common theme of this trip was exhaustion
and me sleeping like a rock (despite some pretty dilapidated living quarters
along the way) by about 9 each night.
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Mudslide on Jumla Road |
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Bus over the side |
After a great sleep, we woke up to another rainy morning in
Mamna, drank some tea, and waited out the passing storm. After a few hours, the rain let up and we
began our adventure through Mamna and onto Sarabara. I have a number of people that were
wonderfully helpful along the trip, and during this leg it was Karkha Singh who
carried by bag for the entirety and expertly guided us to our destination. After being pent up in the bus for an entire
day previously the 8 hours of walking was actually quite pleasant. During the walk we practiced Nepali, and I
stated my goal of making big language strides during the trip. A goal which was quite easy to accomplish
thanks to total immersion. In Sarabara
we met Dil and Top Malla who served as our guides for the majority of our
trip. They were amazingly helpful
throughout, and not only helped me with my Nepali but helped me survive. One of the most challenging moments came
during the morning of day three when we hiked from Sarabara to Chillkaya. In order to reach Chillkaya we had to cross a
ridge, which entailed getting through the mountain town of Lubra. While not the worst part of the walk, this
was certainly one of the scariest with a near vertical rock face that we had to
ascend in order to get to our destination.
It was at this point where I realized how incredibly strong and
coordinated the Nepali people are. While
I consider myself in good shape, this was a completely different type of
workout compared to anything else I’ve put myself through. In addition my large frame and size 13 shoes
did not help while attempting to step down through some tight passages. Lubra aside, we made it to Chillkaya, and I
was blown away. It was easily one of the
most beautiful places I have ever been.
Like an oasis sitting in the middle of Kalikot, this village was full of
fields and gardens and other flat area’s which seemed so odd having hiked
exclusively through mountain villages.
We had a wonderful night in town, met lots of kids and adults, and I was
invited to speak at their village council meeting at the school that
evening. Like everyone else we met on
our travels the people were extremely kind and welcoming.
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Path to Lubra |
After a wonderful evening in Chillkaya, we spent the next
day in Kantampur visiting Sandips birthplace and family. This was a relaxing day which climaxed with a
beautiful trip to the river where we bathed and hung out for a couple of
hours. The next morning we set out to
Oda, which is Tops (Kopila Co-Directors) home village. We stayed in his home, and the welcome mat
was really rolled out in a big way.
Unfortunately, on our first night in Oda symptions started emerging of
an infection that I’m still getting over today.
A mild pain that evening turned into an unbearable pain in my feet the
next morning, which completely halted my ability to walk. Instead, I woke up the next morning to ankles
the size of grapefruits. Evidently my
bug bites got extremely infected leading to a full day of immobility. To make matters worse, medicine is nearly
non-existent in Oda and we were forced to deal with my infection in the village
way. This involved soaking my feet in
scalding water and then draining the pus from my sores. While this sounds disgusting, it was so much
worse than I can even convey over the blog.
Despite my infected feet I decided to wake up the next morning and visit
a school in a village called Romni, which is about an hour and a half away. This is where the 9th and 10th
graders who remain in school go when they finish school in Oda. Going into the walk I did not know how
involved it was going to be and borrowed some sandals for the walk. This turned out to be a massive mistake, not
only was the walk tremendously challenging in sandals…but due to the wrong
sized sandals digging into my feet, another infection was formed which further
limited my walking abilities. That said,
visiting Romni was one of the biggest highlights from my trip. While visiting the school of 320 I learned
that they had never been visited by a westerner and I was the first white
person the vast majority of the kids had ever seen. They were shockingly shy, but so sweet and
curious about their visitor. Sadly, our
time in Oda came to a conclusion all too soon.
Unlike some of the other villages, the number of Kopila relatives made
Oda feel like a second home to me. The
kids would all come to Tops house in the afternoon and by the time the sun was
going down there would be 30 to 40 kids playing, talking, and observing quietly
from afar.
At this point we began the home stretch of our 11 day
journey. After a 2 night stay in
Dilikot, we began the long trip back to Surkhet. Unlike the trip to Kalikot, we decided against
the walk in deference to a walk to Dailekh followed by a bus from there. Since the beginning of the trip, I had heard
lots about this walk, including the perilous mahabua where many people have
died or had very serious injuries while attempting to pass. Our trip took two days, and started out at 10
am. The first 4 hours were incredibly
challenging from a physical standpoint, and while I wasn’t afraid I was beyond
tired as we walked uphill non stop for the duration of the morning. The next sequence was flat, albeit nearly as
challenging due to a huge rainstorm that soaked our clothes and pinned us down
in a small hut for over an hour. This
rain finally did subside though, and we progressed towards the infamous
Mahabua. For about 2 hours Dil Malla
carried all three bags while gripping me tightly by my jacket. He was a great guide, that kept me from
tumbling off the mountain more than once.
The most extreme instance came on the “Lahina Pass”. During this portion Dil brought all the bags
to the bottom, and returned so he could guide me unimpeded by bags. Additionally, he had me take of my shoes so I
could get better traction and feeling on the wet rocks. At this point my feet were bleeding
tremendously from the infections, and day of walking which resulted in a pretty
gruesome site as I scaled down the rocks.
I quickly see why Dil made both decisions. At one point, during this pass there was no
path, rather there was two step stones roughly 6 feet apart. In order to get through, I was forced to hang
from the mountain side, grasping onto whatever I could as Dil took hold of my
shoeless feet to guide them to safety.
After getting past Lahina, the path eased up a bit and we were able to
walk at a good clip to Ukrabash, where we reached at 8pm. To make matters worse with my feet, after
Lahina I didn’t put my wet socks back on my feet and just wore shoes. I learned
when we reached ukrabosh that this was a mistake, and upon taking off my shoes
was shocked to find my feet covered with several leaches, and bleeding even
more profusely than they were earlier in the day. Thankfully, at this point I was exhausted, my
feet were numb, and I really couldn’t have cared less about the leaches. At that point I was just ready to fall asleep
so we could wake up and get to Dailekh. After
a bowl of chow chow I went to bed, and slept like a rock until 5am, when we
woke up for day 2 of our trip. Day 2 was pretty straight forward, and we
reached Dailekh in 5 hours, got some lunch, and jumped on the first bus to
Surkhet. The drive was only about 4 and
a half hours, which was a welcome change to the Mamna drive. Tope and Maggie picked up Sandip, Dil, and
myself from the bus park.
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Mahabua |
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Success with Sandip and Dil Malla |
It took me several days to write about this trip, and I’m
actually sitting on the airplane right now to the States wrapping it up. I think a combination of exhaustion combined
with my farewell to Surkhet really slowed down my progress. Excuses aside, I
learned a tremendous amount about myself and my desire to continue working in
Nepal during this trip. The most
startling, albeit comforting realization was that my bloody and infected
feet combined with general discomfort
did not lessen my desire. Rather, quite
the opposite occurred, as sat there bloodied and battered my resolve hardened
and my passion solidified. I came back
from my trip with a unflinching certitude that this is where I’m supposed to
be, and this is what I’m supposed to be doing.
This confidence inspired me to talk to Top and Maggie in order to come
up with a plan for my future. Well, the
future is exciting but scary…In September, I am going to move back to Nepal and
after a few weeks head up to Oda in order to work with the people up there and
develop a project of my own. More on
this soon, but very excited to know where I will be and who I will be working
with for the foreseeable future.
Until next time…